Pressure Grouting Contractors

Questions and Answers

How to fix a foundation crack?I bought a house with a room added by the former owner themselves. They didn’t get the permit from the city. So there is some kind of sinking of the foundation (added room with size 9X9). There is a crack on the floor between the added room and the main building. What is the best way to fix it? Knock down and remove it or some other way? How much is about it ? Thank you for your help.

Posted by Paula

adminNothing you do is going to be inexpensive, and strictly speaking since it’s unpermitted construction, you may not have the right to do anything about it except demolish it – you certainly can’t file an insurance claim on it.You’ll have to read up on the codes regarding this.

My own sister in law had her addition settle after it was done, and they did a fully permitted, inspected and approved job complete with foundation interconnections and everything – it’s just one of those things. She’s learned to live with it. You may be able to look for a contractor that does sidewalk leveling – what they do is tunnel under the foundation and pump grout under pressure to raise the foundation back to where it belongs from underneath. The grout then sets and becomes the new bottom of the foundation.

No guarantees, of course. And if they know it’s unpermitted construction, they may not want to touch it. It may not be possible to pull a permit for the job if the structure they’re working on is illegitimate.

What is the per linear foot/metre cost of underpinning a house in Ontario (basic estimate ok)?

Posted by Fergie
adminWithout more information, it’s not really possible to answer your question. What are the ground conditions? Is there high ground water or bad ground such as peat? How easily can the contractor access the site? What other utilities need to be relocated (even if only temporarily)? And so on . . .
My suggestion is to look into having the underpinning done by mudjacking, pressure grouting, and installation of support piers, generally described at Http://www.inspectapedia.com/structure/V…
Actually exposing and underpinning your foundation and / or footings is a time consuming & costly job, and the time and expense are made worse by the extensive restoration which will be required. Hope this helps – and good luck!

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Questions and Answers

I really need help cleaning ceramic tile and grout..?

Posted by MissLibra
adminThere are some fair tile and grout cleansers on the market. Be careful of using too much bleach. If your grout isnt white, the bleach will take the color out of it. Should go to the expense of having someone come out and professionally clean it and seal the grout. Then all you have to do is maintain it. Depending on usage, you shouldnt have to have this done again for a long time. The less abrasive the cleanser and the less amount of water can keep you tile cleaner longer. High pressure steam cleaner works well, just be sure to dry it well afterwards, since grout is very absorbent. Too much water can cause the tiles to loosen or break, and can cause further staining of the grout.
Whats a good name for an pressure washing business?Something that shows professionalism and is catchy.

Posted by κύριος κτίστης
adminHigh Pressure Specialties
Specializing in High Pressure Cleaning
of all types of surfaces / Contcrete , Wood , Grout , Tile , Stone , Exc………Under Pressure
? ? ? ? Fill in the blanks.

How was the underwater oil well built in the first place?I’m referring to the oil leak in the Gulf of Mexico. If I understand correctly there’s basically a hole in the ocean that was drilled to get oil out, but instead of being pumped out on purpose it’s just coming out on it’s own. How do they prevent the oil from gushing out like this when that hole is first drilled?

Posted by water_skipper
adminAs a mechanical engineer, I used to do subsea wellhead design way back when Moby Dick was a minnow. Since I’ve been out of that business for a couple decades, some of what I tell you may have changed a bit over the years…The typical subsea wellhead has a 30-inch suspension joint drilled and grouted (cemented) into the ocean floor. From that semi-permanent structure, a square guide base is installed that has four cables that connect to the oilrig. The cables are used to run various pieces of equipment to the wellhead such as a blowout preventer stack. All drilling is performed through a 20-inch diameter casing that runs from the rig to the 30-inch suspension joint.

As the well is drilled deeper and deeper, the chances of hitting a high-pressure oil or gas formation increases. The blowout preventer stack is a redundant series of “valves” that prevent that high pressure “kick” from causing an out-of-control release of that high-pressure oil or gas.

When a kick first occurs, an “annular” preventer is activated to react the pressure from the kick. The annular preventer is like a balloon inflated around a pipe. It’s a quick, low-pressure solution for the kick. Also, high density “mud” is pumped down the casing to overcome the pressure of the kick and stablize the event.

If the high-pressure kick overwhelms the annular preventer and the mud is not stabilizing the well, a “ram” preventer is activated. The ram preventer is comprised of two thick, steel rams that close on the drill string from opposite sides. The ends of the ram preventer have a semi-circular cutout with an integrated stiff rubber gasket to seal around the drill string. The ram preventer can react thousands of pounds per square inch pressure, and its rare that a well will go out of control after this stop-gap is activated.

However, should neither the annular or ram preventers do the trick, the last line of defense is the “shear” preventer. It operates similarly to the ram preventers, but instead of rubber gaskets at the ends of the steel rams, they are sharpened and act like a gullotine cutter. The shear preventer indeed shears through the drill string and completely closes off the flow of oil or gas through the BOP stack.

Not knowing any of the details, I can only surmise that either the BOP stack failed (highly unlikely) or the kick caused the casing to blow out sideways at a point below the BOP stack. That’s a sucky situation because it’s so hard to fix.

There have been several large blowouts in the Gulf of Mexico, not to mention the world. More is given below…

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Questions and Answers

Shoud I buy an underpinned house?Dnt no wot to do abt buying a house that’s had underpinning is it a good idea.

Posted by oliver c
adminWell, underpinning is done to rectify a problem, normally subsidence which can be caused by many factors both natural and man made.Normally underpinning will be done under the guidance of an engineer who will have completed a report. If these exist then I shouldn’t see any problem with buying it as the problem will already have been rectified.The only thing to look out for is as regards house insurance. You may have trouble insuring against further subsidence related problems. Give them a call.

Principle that underpin effective team working?

Posted by Sam H
adminSeversal principles underpin effective teamwork:
1) Open, honest communication between all team members, so they can work together smoothly.
2) Each team member knows what he/she’s good at, compared to the other team members, so that each person knows what part of the overall task shold be allocated to whom.
3) Each person does not try to hog the spotlight — it doesn’t matter who does the job, so long as it’s the person who has the best ability for that particular part. That is, each person knows when to lead and when to follow.
4) Clear understanding of the job to be done, and of the different parts that make up the overall job, so that the job can be effectively divided up among the team members.
Removing underpin on a mobile home?The mobile home I’m living in has plastic underpin and I’m wanting to take one of the panels off so I can have access under the floor for a project. Is there a trick to this? I don’t want to break it.

Posted by Jamie R
adminUnderpinning on a mobile home is very simple to remove. At the top of the underpinning is a top rail that is attached to your trailer and the bottom is a “U” channel that the underpinning sets in. Each piece of underpinning is attached to each other with channels. Simply pull up the top rail and grab the piece of underpinning that you want to remove and pull up. As you pull up you will see how the underpinning is attached to each other. When you are ready to reinstall the piece of underpinning simply make sure that you get this piece attached to the other pieces on each side of it and push down until you get to the bottom channel. If you have trouble getting the pieces back together on the sides you can pull the underpinning together so you can line up the side channels. Then pop the piece back under the top rail and your all set. Hope this info helps. ????

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Questions and Answers

What is underpinning a house?I was close to buying a house and discovered it had structural cracks. I have been told it needs to be underpinned. What is involved, how much will it cost?

Posted by Jones
adminIn construction, underpinning is the process of strengthening and stabilizing the foundation of an existing building or other structure. Underpinning may be necessary for a variety of reasons:The original foundation is simply not strong or stable enough.
The usage of the structure has changed.
The properties of the soil supporting the foundation may have changed (possibly through subsidence) or were mischaracterized during planning.
The construction of nearby structures necessitates the excavation of soil supporting existing foundations.
It is more economical, due to land price or otherwise, to work on the present structure’s foundation than to build a new one.
Underpinning is accomplished by extending the foundation in depth or in breadth so it either rests on more supportive soil stratum or distributes its load across a greater area. Use of micropiles [1] and jet grouting are common methods in underpinning. An alternative to underpinning is the weakening of the soil by the introduction of a grout. All of these processes are generally expensive and elaborate.

Underpinning of house!?In construction, underpinning is the process of strengthening and stabilizing the foundation of an existing building.. I was looking to hire sort of company to provide this underpinning services for my house, I have received quote from Http://www.jetpin.com.au have any experience of users with this company?

Posted by Raj
adminUnderpinning means to support something from below, for example with props or a foundation. It is commonly used to describe any knowledge that is foundational (basic or the most simply required) for a specific area of work or study………I recommend you to see —-> Http://www.besthomegarden.infounderpinning in my experience doesn’t actually do anything to strengthen the house by doing it after the house was built. It’s more for cosmetics and to keeps animals and such out from under the house.
I hope that will resolve your problem,
What is it meant by underpinning here?—————-
Knowledge, Attitude & Practice studies and baseline surveys constitute the foundation for eventual impact assessments as well as underpinning the findings of ensuing PRA/VCA activities.

Posted by diehard
adminUnderpinning means supporting.
It probably is derived from architecture where the foundation of a structure is the underpinning.

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Questions and Answers

Grout And Foundation Help?We have had cracks in our tile. Then we called the builder person. They took pictures and then brought the vp of the company, head manager, head flooring message and himself. They looked at each other like oh shit what is happening. Because the foundation is cracked were the tile is cracked. We
Paid 750000 for this house. The foundation has tons of wires and pipes tightened in. What will happen next? Will we have to move? Also I should add the cracks are moving.

Posted by Joli

adminGet a second or third or maybe even a fourth opinion from foundation contractors.

Read the following to choose a contractor:

==============================================

Selecting contractors:

1/ Look up local contractors first. Work out from the closest
to your location. If someone you trust has had work done
similar to yours, ask them about the contractor they
used. If they were completely satisfied with their
contractor(s), ask for their telephone number.

2/ Select at least 5 your are interested

3/ Do a google/yahoo search on each of the contractors
you are interested in; look for praises (check who is
writing the praises to see if they have any connection to
the contractor <scam artists and coffident persons often
work in groups> google/yahoo search the people giving
the praise or references)

4/ When you are satisfied with at least 3 contractors per job,
have them give you written estimates with details of work
to be done, terms, guarantee(s), cost of extras (how
much do they charge if they find something not covered
by the contract), paymant schedules if necessary and
whatever else you can think of to protect yourself.

5/ If the contractor tries to pressure you into signing the
contract immediately with a high deposit (more than
15% – deposits over 10% normally are not paid untill material is delivered and left at your site) reject that contractor. Be careful, high pressure can be someone who sounds very convincing, but has
many reasons why you should sign on the dotted line NOW.

6/ It is always good to have another adult with you when a
contractor inspects the work to be done.

7/ If you do not get at least 3 written estimates signed by the contractor – not you (do not sign yet) , go back to 1. Repeat until you get written estimates signed by the contractor – not you (do not sign yet).

Read the estimates over with some who has some knowledge of the work that has to be done.

This may take longer than you thought; do not rush into it. Research, resaerch research, helps.

When you are ready choose by being informed.

Good Luck.

How much is professional tile cleaning and grout sealing by the square foot.?Just wondering what I could expect before calling and getting a “professional quote” from a local business in Southwest Florida. If anyone has any experience even nation wide I’d appreciate some responses. I Have about 600 square feet of tile flooring that needs the grout to be cleaned and resealed. Thanks.

Posted by abe

adminSometimes, a basic cleaning is not enough to restore an area to its original condition. Whether doing home or commercial cleaning, some additional elbow grease is needed. Tile grout cleaning is one of those things people often wish to overlook because it is not an easy task. Either they let the grout accumulate dirt or they hire a cleaning service to take care of the area.

In a bathroom, stains may appear on the tile grout due to mildew or mold. Kitchen cleaning requires removing mildew, grime, and food stains from the tile grout. Regular and commercial cleaning products are sold for use in these areas. Despite a lot of scrubbing, these may not even be able to remove the most set-in or difficult stains from the tile grout.

For these tough cases, a cleaning service performs high pressure washing of the tile.

However you may have an estimate of your need just calling the representative of the cleaning company. One of such company I do prefer is:

Http://bbcleaningservice.com/office-clea…

Contact them and evaluate the price.

Can i pressure wash tile?

Posted by Tifton
adminAs above the pressure will take the grout out. Steam is a better solution for floors or bath tile.
In the bath,steam one wall wipe down if soap scum still remains, treat with Scrubbing Bubbles type cleaner and let sit for 15min. Re-steam,and repeat if necessary.

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Questions and Answers

Do basement wall anchors work?Have you had wall anchors installed for bowed walls? Did they do the job? Did they straighten the wall or just hold it in place? For how long? What type did you have installed? Any details would help as we’ve had many estimates and all the contractors really seem like scam artists!

Posted by vw
adminI can only assume that you are asking about bowed in concrete foundation walls in your basement.
Anchors do work in holding the walls in place. They will not straighten the walls. This is an expensive operation involving drilling holes in your walls from the inside, then inserting large screws such as “AB Chance Anchors” into the earth then filling them with grout.
Get several estimates from contractors. Ask for different ideas such as installing a concrete pier called a “dead man” outside your house. This will tend to hold the wall in place if installed correctly.
More importantly, try to figure out why your wall is moving. Most likely, water condenses the ground outside forcing your walls to hold back more pressure than they were built for. This is called “jetting”. You will need to make sure that pressure is eliminated from your walls by either landscaping your yard so that water drains away or, more likely, you will have to install a drainage system or a “french drain” outside at the affected area.
If cracks have occured in your walls, you will have to get them sealed by a process called epoxy injection.
Use a contractor that is licensed and insured and has references such as the last few jobs with similar situations like yours.
I am sorry I cannot give you an inexpensive solution. Good luck with your wall.

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Questions and Answers

Sunken Concrete leveling?Wondering if there there were any mud-jacking pumps for residential use? Basically, I am looking for pumps which are capable of pumping concrete at some pressure, to lift sunken drive ways and stuff. I am referring to those smaller concrete slabs which you see on walkways, pathways etc. There has to be something like this sort, since sunken driveways are such a common occurrence. I am just not able to find out or rent one for this purpose. Am I using the wrong search words? What are these kinds of pumps knows as in the constructing fraternity? What I should be looking for? Mortar pumps? Boom pumps? Grout pumps? Do any of these pump concrete at pressure? I am searching for mud-jacking pumps, but not too many results. Please help.

Posted by emmanuelanil
adminThe type of pump you are looking for would probably be a grout pump. This would not only be due to the ability to adjust the pressure but also due to the type of material you will be pumping. Mud-jacking is done with a mixture of cement and top soil and obviously water. The material does not pump like concrete. You may be able to rent a grout pump from a construction equipment rental store.
The controls on the pumping equipment are of great importance. Although volume should not be an issue, pressure control is important.
When you consider that approximately 1/2 psi pressure will lift a 6″ thick slab without any other restraints than just the concrete weight, pressure control is critical to control the lift. (Check out my math, concrete at 150# per cubic foot, 1,728 cubic inches in a cubic yard would equal 0.0868 pounds per cubic inch. 6″ slab x 0.0868 would equal 0.52 pounds.)
As far as being economical compared to removal and replacement of concrete a lot of factors come into play. It can be more cost effective. I have used it a few times and saved a bunch of money over concrete removal and replacement. Another issue is that if the slab is mud-jacked the surface condition of the resulting concrete will obviously match the adjacent and existing concrete. (A few injection and observation holes, although they will be small, will show though.)
You need to plan out how you will complete a mud-jacking operation and determine the features and equipment you will need to do the job, then go looking for your pump, controls, material handlers, compressors, drilling equipment, etc, etc. (The largest issues encountered in mud-jacking are raising the slab to high or filling an under slab drain or void that you do not want to fill, ie. Plug a drain.)
I would say there would be a decent need for this service in a large city if you have a great advertising program or know the right people.

Q#1- Recently appears another fee in our EBMUD billing statement, which is called “Seismic Improvement Program

Posted by SHAD G
adminHi.
This statement meansClaremont Tunnel Seismic UpgradeThe 3.4-mile Claremont Tunnel, originally completed in 1929, is a major water supply artery delivering up to 175 million gallons per day of treated water from EBMUD’s Orinda Water Treatment Plant to more than 800,000 customers west of the Oakland-Berkeley Hills. The tunnel crosses the Hayward Fault about 130 feet below Tunnel Road in Berkeley and is very vulnerable to earthquake damage. Improving the tunnel’s earthquake performance is a cornerstone of EBMUD’s Seismic Improvement Program. If the tunnel were to fail after a major earthquake, the impacts would include:Disruption of water deliveryReduction in fire fighting capabilitySevere water rationing for up to six months during tunnel repairs

Economic losses to the community estimated in 1994 at approximately $1.9 billion

EBMUD is seismically upgrading the tunnel so that it will survive a major earthquake and allow the safe delivery of water after such an event. Construction for the Claremont Tunnel Seismic Upgrade began in June 2004. The work includes:

A new 1,570-foot bypass tunnel to replace the most vulnerable portion of the Claremont Tunnel crossing the Hayward Fault

A 480-foot access tunnel and entry portal at EBMUD’s Claremont Center in Berkeley

Repairs and grout injection reinforcement for the remainder of the existing tunnel between Orinda and Berkeley

The inside of the bypass tunnel is lined with reinforced concrete.
All tunnel excavations and the concrete lining for the bypass tunnel have been completed. By Summer 2006, concrete lining, and the entry portal at the access tunnel will be completed. Repairs in the existing tunnel have also been completed, and during Winter 2006-07, grout injection for the existing tunnel, and the connections between the existing and bypass tunnels will be completed. In Spring 2007, earth fill to cover the access portal structure, and landscaping will be restored at the Claremont Center construction areas. All construction activity, including site clean-up and contractor demobilization, is anticipated to be completed by June 2007.

Available Publications

More information about the Seismic Improvement Program and the latest project newsletter to the community are available as PDF files below. They can be viewed and printed with Adobe Acrobat Reader, a free software.

Seismic Improvement Program Update (295KB)
Seismic Improvement Program 2005 Progress Report (3MB)

For more information or questions about the project please contact Project Liaison Donna Kerger at dkerger@ebmud.com or (510) 287- 0165.

My House Walls are fully moist ,damp because of soil retained till slab what to do?Because of a gigantic structure(building) built behind my house which has only ground floor and slab,all walls are becoming fully damp.all switch boards such as tv,mixer, are all located on it what to do ???i m afraid that any kind of shocks will come what to do …any suggestions are appreciated ,thnq
a white thing is out frm these walls i want some remedies so as to avoid this and even be away from decreasing the strength of walls and even structures such slabs or footings or columns………im in dilemma plz help me out
Actually my adjacent property people(back side) have raised there plinth level upto our slab level thats the problem,water percolating frm soil nd entering my house walls..

Posted by Srujan
adminYour room’s wall are load bearing masonry wall & now it is also acting as retaining wall.If so you can talk to local authority to claim cost of strengthening of wall from your neighbour. This may be uphill task but it is your right.
You have to talk to structural designer with relevant data like hight & width of unsuported wall,wall thickness,water table,drainage system around both buildings.
Storm water system of neighbour’s building should also be checked so that if required water outlet location could be changed.
What you can do from your side of wall is to make injection grouting in wall backing at certain location with water proofing compound. It will also be better, if possible, to provide a drainage out let (weep hole) to release water accumulation from retaining side near the floor in wall.This outlet you can connect to your drainage system.If the water coming out from weep hole is not a clear water then you have to create a artificial filter on back of weep hole. For this you have to make one more hole at lower level below the first weep hole ,In this lower hole you have to fix a threaded nipple with blind(stopper).Mean while you make artificial filter in back of upper hole ,you can allow water temporary from this other hole.
Be remember that in any case you have to close weep hole if you are unable to stop flow of soil with water from weep hole.
Powdering on wall inform you that water is accumulating on back side of wall.
Designer may suggest to built additional pillars in wall from your side.Pillar & wall can be connected by steel connector & pocketing in existing wall.
Any water proofing on wall from your side face will be wasteful of money.

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Questions and Answers

Why do we go on providing water to the [dried] CEMENT of a recently built building or any such infrastructure?

Posted by Karishma
adminCement doesn’t dry… It hardens.
This hardening process is called hydration and continues for days long after the cement has firmed up enough to walk on.As hydration continues, the cement gets harder and harder until it reaches its full strenght in 28 days. During this curing the cement heats up from the chemical reactions and it also shrinks or contracts. In order for hydration to continue water must be present if enough water is not present then the hydration process will stop before the cement has had a chance to reach its full rated strenght.Newly poured cement is kept moist so that water is kept available for the hydration process to continue and most importantly to even the temperatures so the cement doesn’t crack. Evaporation is controlled by spraying with water or by covering the cement with materials or coatings which keeps the water from evaporating. During the curing (hydration) process heat is also generated, this heat can cause water to evaporate and halt the curing and cause the cement to crack due to uneven contraction. Neither condition is desirable so the cement is kept cool by spraying water on it.In some large cement pours cement is kept cool and wet by using ice and in some very large pours a cooling water system is cast in place (like what was done on the Hoover dam) After the cooling pipes are no longer needed they are filled with grout.

What’s Oxidation in building structures and how it weakens the strength of steel?My building needs major repairs due to cracks developed and sippage of rain & drain water through this crack. I want to understand the reasons for cracks and effect of water sippage on inner steel structure
in Concrete Beams, Columns and Slabs to begin Oxidation process.

Posted by Sunil S

adminRust is Ferrous Oxide, this is a compound of Iron and Oxygen. When air gets into the cracks, and makes contact with your steel, oxidation process starts. There is a misconception that water makes steel to rust. It is the oxygen in the air actually. However, water hastens the process of oxidation that’s why we suspect it to cause the rusting.The reason cracks on buildings are:1. Inadequate reinforcement. The bending moment of such elements might be too large that steel inside the element cannot withstand and causes the cracks on concrete.

2. Poor workmanship. During the concreting, there might be some honeycombs which were not treated effectively. The voids inside and outside the concrete weakens the concrete. This is also due to ineffective vibration during the placing of concrete.

3. Cold joints might not have been treated with grouting. Connection of concrete from old pour to new pour should have been treated with cement grout.

4. Lack of waterproofing. The materials which used for waterproofing of the structure is not effective enough to protect the concrete form water seepage

5. Creeping and Shrinkage of concrete. This characteristic of concrete takes long time to happen. Concrete shrinks and creeps with the changing temperature and humidity.

6. Design mix of concrete. Sometimes, during the placement of concrete, the strength of concrete being placed is not in accordance with design strength. Ex. Instead of pouring 5000psi, they pour 3500psi.

7. Others maybe less concrete cover, improper curing of concrete and additional loads might have been put to your structure which were not considered in the design.

I suggest that you check thoroughly whether the cracks you have identified are just hairline cracks or structural cracks for you to do the appropriate repair on your structure. Structural Epoxy injection is the commont method if you found structural cracks on you building.

Goodluck.

Masonry construction?What durability problems affect masonry structures and what can be done about them?Looking for a little helpany appreciated, thanks.

Posted by PHYYYSSSICCCS

adminMasonry construction is inherently durable since it is made of sand, cement, and water (among other things). It is an excellent building material if constructed by experienced masons and properly engineered to resist the loads to which the masonry will be subjected. Masonry may be reinforced or unreinforced. Over time, the mortar joints may need some maintenance to keep out rainwater. Water is the arch enemy of any masonry or concrete construction. Properly designed masonry construction includes reinforcing steel within the voids of the blocks and each cell in which the rebar is to be placed is to be grouted solid with a pea-gravel type of flowable concrete called mortar. Any masonry that supports earth such as retaining walls shall be grouted solid regardless of where the rebar is located. The mortar and grout ingredients and proportions are critical for long term masonry construction durability.If masonry cracks within the block, these cracks should be repaired using epoxy injection and then monitored for future movements.I am not sure of the the specific problem you may be experiencing with masonry.

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